Chain-stitch shoe-sewing machine.



' v A. BALLARD. CHAIN STITCH SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIDA TIOH FILED DEG. 19, 1907.

. Patented Sept. 15, 191-4.

0 SH'EBTSSHEET 1.

'H. A. BALLARD. CHAIN STITCH SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEO.19, 190 7. I

' Patented Sept 15, 1914 G SHEETS-SHEET 2.

H. A. BALLARD. CHAIN STITCH SHOE'SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION. FILED DEC. 19, 1907. Ll 10,863,

Patented' Sept. 15,1914.

6 SHEEN-SHEET va.

H.-A. BALLARD. CHEIN STITCH SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED mp.19, 1907.

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Patented e t. 15, 1914.

H. A. BALLARD. CHAIN STITCH SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC. 19, 1907.

Patented 86 51111914;

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' H. A. BALLARD. CHAIN STIIUH SHOE SEWING MAGHINE;

' APPLICATION FILED DEC. 19, 1907.

Patented Sept. 15, 1914.

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"UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

BARBIE A. BALLARD, or BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE BoYLsro'nMANUFACTURING COMPANY, or nosron, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION or NEWJERSEY.

CHAIN-STITCH SHOE-SEWING MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 15, 1914.

To all whom it may concern v Be it known that I, Hamlin A. BALLARD, ofBoston, in the county of Suffolk and State of assachusetts, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Chain-Stitch Shoe-SewingMachines, of which. the following is a specification.

This invention has relation to shoe sewing machines which employ waxedthread, and more particularly to such of said machines as make a. chainstitch, although certain features of the invention may be incorporatedin those which make a lock stitch.

The principal object of the invention is to produce a machine of thegeneral class referred to, which may be run at high speed, and which atthe same time will make an accurate andtight seam.

A nother ob ect of the invention is to avoid a complication of parts andmake the mechanism simple in construction, and well balanced andefficient in operation. Heretoforc it has been the practice incommercial machines to employ an awl in connection with the needle, butI have dispensed with this element and cause the needle to make its ownaperture in the work and to feed the work. In order, h wever, that theneedle may not be strained )y the side thrust in feeding the work, Iemploy a member or instrumentality which coiipera es with the needle inits feeding movement. This instrumentality or member may likewise servethe purpose of a channel guide or opener. The needle and its cooperatingfeeding member are both mounted, as a matter of convenience, upon thesame slide or movable support, and are moved sinmltaneously to elfertthe feeding of the work. hlechanism is utilized to more the cooperatingfeeding mcmher or instruuu ntalrc) forward and backward so as to engagethe work and then to release it, the member thus having what is called afourmotion" movement. instrumentality also holds the work against thetlllu:=t of the needle when the latter i. mowed through its pznictratiugstroke, and in order to resist the thrust upon the work when the needleis withdrawn therei'r-mu and is drawing hark the loop. l oiui'iloycombined we t guide and wrrh page. bears against the work at two s :-.ia'.t or separate points on both sides of the needle. and between whichthe needle reciprwaics The Said member or laterally. This part, to wit,the combined welt guide and work gage, serves to hold the work fromreceding when the needle and its cooperating feeding member arereturning after haring fed the work. Regarding the welt guide and thework gage as separateentities, they are mounted upon the same movablesupport, said support being positioned automatically in accordance withthe thickness of the parts of the shoe being sewed, and then looked. Byautomatic nux'hanism. the support is released and unwed away from thework when the work .zg: fed, and is then forced forward and e a! whilethe needle is being returned to its starting point and forced throughthe work. The said support for the welt guide is so mounted that,notwithstanding its movement, .it keeps a predetermined stitchrcceiringline of the welt in the path of the needle. The we tin passing throughthe sruide i creased, and it is desirable that the needle should passthrough the crease. Hence, since the needle moves through an arc, thesupport is mounted so that it too moves through a substantially similararc, and thus when the welt guide moves away from the work, the creasein the welt follows the path of the needle, in consequence of which theneedle always penetrates the crease irrespective of the thickness of, orthe number of layers of leather and canvas in. the work. The combinedwelt guide and work gage. practically render unnecessary the usual worksupport which is common to such machines, although one may be emplo vcdif the operator desires.v The work page bears a ainst the upturnedportion of the sewed we t whereas the end of the welt guide bearsagainst the upturned edge of the upper and wale or flange of the innersole. s that wit 1 the frictional engagement alls of the welt guide withthe Welt, the rrsistance of the welt, and the engagemcrl of aid guideand gage with the work, the r ais effectively prevented from re- I whenthe needle is returuin; after fed the work. I

" .ish additional strength to the -tirel v feeding the work. I e guard,and novel unwilit. .Vhrn the needle the guard higher speed into uecail:1 rd at a operated by a toothed segmental lever. The

guard, however, is -mounted on a carrier (movable about the axis of theneedle carrier) and it is connected by a link with the said segmentallever. This link and the lever form, as it were, a toggle which, when.straightened, causes an initial rapid movement of the guard carrierwhich movement ceases before the needle completes its penetratingstroke. The thread tension devices are provided with means by which thetension is released when the power shaft is moved reversely, as when theneedle is being positioned to permit the insertion or removal of a shoeinto or out of position. In;

connection with this tension-releasing mechanism, I also employ means bywhich the welt guide and work gage are released and moved away from thework upon a reversal of rotation of the power shaft.

the accompanying drawings which illustrate one embodiment of theinvention,

-Figure 1 represents in front elevation a chain-stitch shoe sewingmachine. Fig.2 represents a side elevation thereof. Figs. 3 and 4illustrate the operation of the thread finger and the looper. Figs. 5and 6 illustrate the means for adjusting the looper fulcrum. Fig. 7illustrates the needle and its carrier, the needle guard and itscarrier, the welt guide, and the channel guide, and the relation of thesaid parts. Figs. 8 and 9 illustrate the combined welt guide and workgage, Fig. 9 showing the gage against the upturned portion of the sewedwelt. Fig. 10 is a rear elevation of the machine, illustrating insection the tension-releasing devices. Fig. 11 illustrates the mechanismfor locking, releasing and moving the welt guide and work gage, the workrest, and operating the tension-releasing devices. Fig. 12 represents ahorizontal section through a portion of the machine and illustrates thework rest, the combined work gage and welt guide, the mechanism forcontrolling them and the looper. Fig. 13 represents in front elevationthe needle carrier and its support, and "the needle guard. Fig. 14represents a side .elevation thereof. Fig. 15 represents a section onthe line 14 14 of Fig. 14. Figs. 16 and 17 respectively illustrate theneedle carrier, and the needle-guard carrier. Figs. 18 and 19 show thegearing for operating the looper. Figs. 20 and 21 representvdevelopments of the two gears. Fig. 22 represents the needle guard andthe needle in a different relative position than that shown in b Fig.14.

It should be understood that the illustrated machine. is not the onlyembodiment also with a hand wheel, not

upper portion of this casing,'Which is shown in section in Fig.1, isindicated at 33 and is hinged to the lower portion as at 34 so as to becapable of being moved to an upright position. The casing forms aninclosing covering for those parts of the machine which aremounted uponthe power shaft.

The chamber within the inclosing casing is divided from front to rear bya vertical partition formed by webs 35, 36 so as to provide two separatecompartments 37 and 38 for a purpose to be described. Extendingtransversely through the chambers 37, 38 is a power shaft 39 which isequipped with the usual driving pulleys, not shown, and shown, by whichit may be rotated manually when desired.-

' In the front of the machine, there is a laterally movable slide 40movable between guides or gibs 41, 42. This slide serves to support theneedle carrier, and is reciprocated to effect the feeding of the workwhen the needle is engaged with the latter. The reciprocation of theslide is effected by a cam disk 43, secured upon the power shaft39-within the chamber 37 of the head, and a lever 44 carrying on itsfree end a roll 45 extending into a peripheral cam groove 46 in saiddisk.

The lower end of the lever 44 is fulcrumed upon a stud 47 attached tothe front of the head, and the said lever is provided with alongitudinally adjustable stud 48 extending through a slot 49 in theslide, as clearly shown in Fig. 1. By adjusting the said stud 48, thefeed of the work may e varied as to length. The slide 40 has a bracket50 which extends downwardly and rearwardly as shown in Fig. 7. Thisbracket, as shown in Figs. 13 and 15, is recessed to receivethe needleand needle-guard carriers. The recess is closed on one side by a plate51 as: cured to the bracket by suitable attaching devices as indicatedat 52, 53, Fig. 14. A stud 54 is supported in the plate 51 and the.bracket 50, and serves as a fulcrum or pivot about which the needlecarrier and the needle-guard carrier may be oscillated, said parts beinglocated in the recess in the racket.

The needle carrier is indicated as a whole at-55, the needle 56 beingsecured thereto by a clamp 57 and screw 58. The needle cardle guard isindicated at 62. It has an aperture 63 through which the needle passesas shown in Figs. 13 and 14.

shaped and is recessed on one side so as to receive between it and thebracket 50, a link 65 pivotally connected to the stud 66 projectinglaterally from the carrier.

The link 65 has an elongated laterally projecting stud or pintle 67which projects through an aperture 68 in the lever 60. The lever and thelink constitute, as it were, a toggle which is straightened when thelever 60 is oscillated rearwardly from the position shown in Fig. 7.Since the slide which supports the needle and the needle-guard carriersis-reciprocated laterally to feed the work, the pin 67 has a slidingengagement with the lever 60, and the teeth of the segment 59 are wideenough so as to maintain a constantly intermeshed relation with theteeth of the needle carrier as the latter is moved axially.

Assuming that the parts are in the relation shown in Fig. 7, it will beseen that, as

the lever 60 is moved to the right, the toggle comprising the lever 60and the link 63 will be straightened rapidly so that the needle guardwill be moved simultaneously with the movement of the needle carrier.The speed of the needle-guard carrier will be greater than that of theneedle carrier, but its speed will decrease as the toggle approaches itsstraightened position in Fig. 22. hen the of the studs 61, 67 and 66 arein line. the forward movement of the needle guard will cease, and as thelever (it) cantinues to move to the right, the needle will be advancedto its extreme of movement, the needle guard retiring to some extent.The forward movement of the needle guard is sullicient to bring it inclose proximity to the work. this occurring before the needle is movedlaterally to feed the work, and during such feeding mo vement,the needleguard will remain close tot-he work so as to resist the lateral strainon the needle. The needle guard carrier and the needle carrier are thusactuated by the same lever simultaneously but at difi'erent speeds andthrough different arcs of movement.

' ment 37 is placed an eccentric 70. The cw The guard is; formed on acarrier 64 fulorumed upon the stud or pivot The carrier is sectorcentricstrap 71-is connected to a rod 72, having on its end a stud 7 3 which isadjustable in a slot 74 in the lever 60, said slrlt being substantiallyradial of the stud 61-.

In order that the needle may have assistance in feeding the work, andalso in order that the thrust of the needle against the work may beresisted, I provide a member or instrumentality which convenientlyserves both purposes. This member may also conveniently serve as achannel guide or opener, and I shall refer to it by that name. Itconsists of a finger 75, see Figs. 1, 2 and 7, the lower end ofwhich iscurved and pointed so as to extend into the channel in the inner soleand bear upon said inner sole. The shank of the finger is secured uponthe-end of one arm of a two armed lever 7 6 which is fulcrumedsubstantially midway between'its ends upon a stud 77 projectinglaterally or to the right from the end of the slide 40. The end of theother arm of said lever is equipped with an elongated pin 77 upon whichis slidingly mounted a roll 7 8. Said roll has at its end, flanges whichstraddle a cam 79 formed on the end of the hub of the lever 60, seeFig. 1. The said cam has a depression which is so located that, when theneedle has been withdrawn to its limit of movement, the roll 78 will liein said recess under tension of a suitable spring to move the channelguide to the position shown in Fig. 7. As soon, however, as the needlebegins its forward movement, the roll 78 rides up out of the recess andthe channel guideis moved into engagement with the upstanding channelflap as indicated in dotted lines.

Upon examination of Figs. 1 and 8. it will be'seen that the channelguide is out of alinement with the needle, so that, when the needle haspenetrated the work, it will engage the side edge of the finger orchannel guide and hence, when the needle is fed laterally, the finger orchannel guide will be fed simultaneously with it so that the point ofthe needle will be relieved from any lateral strain. Thus this member 75cooperates with the needle in feeding the work. lts end is also inengagement with the work for this same purpose, and it operates in thenature of a clamp to'engage and feed the work. Its movement is inward,or to the right in Fig. 7, to engage the work and hold it against thethrust of the needle, then axially with the needle to feed the work,then outward or to the left after the needle has been withdrawn from theWork. and then axially back to its original position or starting pointas indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 7.

The looper mechanism is substantially similar to that set forth in myco-pending application Serial No. 408,034 filed December 26, 1907, nowPatent No. 1,075,082, dated shaft 95.

Oct. 7, 1913. It consists of a looper whose delivery point is caused toencircle the needle in such wise as to cross the bight-s of the loop sothat, when the needle recedes through the work, the loop forms what istermed a blackwall hitch. The looper is indicated at 8.0 and it has atubular nose or delivery nozzle 81. The upper end of the looper isclamped in the bent end of a sliding bar 82 as best shown in Fig. 12.This bar is arranged to slide in guides 83, 83 in the ends of a yoke84:. Midway between its ends, the yoke is fitted friction tight upon anupright stud or fulcrum 85. The said stud'is supported in a hub 86formed on the end of the block 87 attached to an extension projectinglaterally from the neck 31 as shown in Figs. 1, 5 and 12. Between thestud 85 and the hub 86, thereis an eccentric sleeve or ,bushing 88, thelower end of which is hexagonal, as indicated at 89, so that it may berotated for the purpose of adjusting the stud to effect an adjustment ofthe yoke 81 and thus increase or decrease the radius of the arc ofmovement of the looper and also to adjust the looper laterally.

A set screw 90 is passed through the hub 86 so as to secure theeccentricsleeve after.

adjustment. A. collar 91 encircles the sleeve and is secured thereto bya screw 92 for a purpose to be later indicated. The rear end of thelooper bar 82 is pivoted upon a crank pin 93 projecting downwardly fromthe disk 94: secured to the lower end of an upright I This shaft isjournaled in bearings 96, 97, as shown in Fig. 2, and extends upwardlyinto the chamber or compartment 38 in the hollow head. Upon its upperend, the shaft 95 is equippedwith a spiral gear 98 which intermesheswith a driving gear 99 on the 'power shaft 39. The teeth upon thetwogears 98, 99 are so formed that the gear 98, during one rotation ofthe shaft 39, is caused to rotate through an arc of more than 360(substantially 450) at which time it comes to a statezofrest and is thenreversely rotated through an are equal to the difference between 300 andits first movement (to wit 90).to bring it to its original startingpoint where it remains once more in a state of rest.

The developnent of the gear 99, as illustrated in Fig. 21, shows thatthe gear has a long series of teeth (6 of one pitch and a short seriesof. teeth 72 of another pitch. These are connected by longitudinal ribs0 0. The gear 98 has one long series of teeth d and a short series ofteeth d which are so formed that they may be engaged by either the teetha or the teeth I) of the gear 99., At the ends of the series d aregrooves e e which may be engaged by the ribs 0 c respectively.

, As the shaft 95 is rotated, the yoke 84 will i be rocked and the bar82 will be reciprocated the path indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 4.

lt will be observed from Fig. 1 that the looper-driving gearing islocated in a separate compartment 38. This is to enable me to place abath of oil in the compartment so that the gear 99 will dip thereinto toeffect its thorough lubrication. In this last-mentioned figure, theneedle has fed the work and has moved into position to receive the loopof thread which is to be laid upon it by the looper.

For the purpose of measuring out the thread so that it will not reevethrough the barb of the needle, I employ a thread finger which isindicated at 100. It has at its lower end a lateral .hook 101. Thisfinger is formed on or secured to the end of a rock shaft 102. Thisshaft is j ournaled in a bearing 103 carried by a bracket 10 1 which isbolted to the front of the head, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. Secured uponthe shaft is a toothed segment 105, the teeth of which engagecomplemental teeth on the curved arm 106 of the two armed leverfulcrumed on the stud 61. The other arm 107 of this lever has a rollextending into a cam groove in the face of the cam disk 43. Theoscillation of the two armed lever 106, 107 effects a back and forthoscillation of the thread finger 81 so as to cause the hook of thethread finger to engage the thread and draw off a suflicient amount forthe stitch, as indicated in Figs. 3 and 4, after which it moves outwardto release the thread.

The take-upconsists of a bell crank lever having a relatively short arm108 and a long arm 109, the latter carrying at its forward end a threadtruck 110. This lever is also fulcrumed upon the stud 61 and it arm 108J is provided with a roll located'ih a cam groove in the face of the camdisk 43. An inclined tubular guide 111 extends from the rear ofthemachine upwardly and forwardly to carry the thread from the tensionsheave to the take-up. Between the end of the tube 111 and the truck110, there is interposed an. auxiliary spring take-up con- 'sisting of aspring tension lever 112 carrying on its end a thread truck 113. Thethread passes from the hub of the said lever under the truck 113, overthe truck 110, and thence to the tubular nozzle. of the looper. Theauxiliary lever 112 is fulcrumed upon a stud projecting laterally fromthebracket 104, and the truck abuts against a face 11 c on the saidbracket. The trucks 113 and 110 are. grooved and guards are provided topre ent the thread from leaving them as indicated at 116, 117. Thetension sheave, about which the thread passes before it enters the guide111, is shown at 118, see Figs.

the rear of the head. The sheave 118 is rel 1, 10 and A pawl 14:6 (Figs-10 cessed to receive the disk and also a friction washer 12- 1. The hub119 of the sheave projects beyond the end of the hub 120. and

against the end of the hub 119 is placed a plate or lever 125 which isheld thereagainst and 12) adapted to engage the ratchet 1-'1lto preventits rotating after the spring 115 has rotated it and the pinion 142 toad- (1111(0 the rest in the usual way. This mechaby a spring 1-2;;located between it and a flange nut 12? screwed on the end of the rod122. The lever 125 is provided with a sleeve or huh 12S extending intothe hub 11!). The two hubs 120, 126 have complemental cam teeth so that,when the lever 125 is rocked, it is forced axially against the tensionof the spring so as to release the sheave 118, and permit it to rotatefreely relatively to the friction washer 12 1. \Vhen the parts are inthe position shown in Fig. 10, however, the spring 126 bearing againstthe lever 125, forces it and the sheave to the left so as to cause theinner face of the sheave to bear frictionally against the frictionwasher 124: which in turn bears against the stationary disk 121. v

Mechanism is provided by which the lever 125 is rocked soas to releasethe sheave and permit it .to rotate freely. This mechanism consists of alever 1128. This lever has a bifurcated or yoke-shaped upper endterminating in two hubs 129, 130 which are journaled upon a stud 131 inthe bearings 132, 132. This lever 1128 has a pin 138 exin its normaldirection, as indicated by the arrow, for forming the stitch, passesunder he pawl 135 without operating the lever. When the power shaft isrotated in the oppesite direction, the tooth 132 engages the pawl 135and rocks the arm 1.31 rearwardly so as to swing the arm 1128 forwardlyand thereby rock the arm 125 to release the tension sheave. The l(.\0!.'formed by the two arms 134, 1128, is also utilized for another purposewhich will be presently explained.

' ugh it is not essential, I have shown the machine as being equippedwith the usual work rest 110 (Fig. 12). This is a bar leaving a curvedforward end against which the upper of the shoe may be held by theoperator. A similar work rest is vshown in U. S. Letters Patent 412,701,()ctoher 8. 188.). This ha 1' slides in guides on the left side of themachine and is provided with a rack l-ll (Fig. 10) intermeshing with ainion 112 mounted loosely on a rock shaft 1 iii (Figs. L and 12). Thepinion is formed on or connected to a ratchet Ill (Figs. 1, '2, 1-) and12) which in turn connected to the shalt 11?. by a coil spring 145(Figs.

i the same purpose.

nism is not novel with me, having long been in use on machines foraccomplishing The lever 1128 has a linger 150 which mayengage a pin 149on the pawl 116 so as to raise it and free it from the ratchet when thepower shaft is reversely rotated.

I have already explained how the forward thrust of the needle'againstthe work is re sisted by a member located on the op osite side of thework. When the needle is eing withdrawn from the work and the loop orthread is being drawn therethrough, they tend to pull the work towardthe head of the machine. Heretofore it has been resisted by the workrest such as I have described. This work rest engages the upper of theshoe at some little distance from the needle, so that the work tends tooscillate about the rest as a fulcrum. It has been necessary for anoperator to manually resist this pull as best he may, but it results ina constant vibration or oscillation of the shoe and is detrimental tothe formation of an accurate scam. I have provided, for resisting thisinward pull upon the work, an instrumentality which bears against thework on the needle side in close proximity to the needle. I have termedthis instrun'ientality a work gage in contradistinction to the usualwork rest such'as I have shown at 1 10. In addition thereto, I have soformed and located this rest, that with it may cooperate the welt guidewhich also bears against the upturned upper and inner sole flange andassists in resisting the inward strain upon the work. The work gage isindicated at 1500 and the welt guide at 151. indicated in Figs. 1, 8 and9, the welt guide is inclined inwardly to the left and down wardly. Itconsists of a block 152 which has a flat face f with an end face g atvery nearly a right angle thereto. A,

On the flange 1525 is secured a spring plate 154, the end of which iscurved around and over the edge of the end face g so as to form anangular guideway for the welt which is indicated at a}. The spring plateis secured in position by a screw 155, there being uti lized a welt gage15$ consisting of a bent Wire or pin as shown in Fig. 8. \Vhon the weltis drawn through the welt guide thus forn'ied, it is bent along alongitudinal line to form a longitudinal crease which I have indicatedat m; The delivery end of the welt guide projects slightly forward ofthe end of the work age 1500, as shown in Fig. 9, so that the stitchedwelt and so that the curved'end of th welt guide may bear against theup- In front elevation, as

turned edge of the upper and of the flange 0rwale on the inner sole. InFig. 9, the edge of the upper is indicated at y, the flange or wale at2, and the upturned channel flap at w. When the needle penetrates theWork, it passes close to the delivery end of the welt guide as shown inFig. 9. The under face of the work gage and the under edge of the welt.guide bear against the upper face of the welt and the upper on the edgeof the inner sole. The Welt guide and the work gage are both formed onthe same shank 157, and between them there is an open passageway 158through which the needle may pass, which passageway is Wide enough toaccommodate the greatest lateral movement of which the needle is capablein feeding the work. The needle penetrates the work at a point close tothe welt guide, and is Withdrawn from the work when relatively near thegage 1500. The gage bears against the upturned part of the welt betweenits inner edge and the line of stitches, and its bearing surface issufiiciently broad to afford an ample abutment to resist the backwardpull of the needle. The welt guide also resists the backward pull byreason of its engagement with the up-' turned margin of the upper. Theunder surface of the gage bears upon the welt between the outer, edgeand lineof stitches, and is therefore adapted to resist the upward pullof the thread due to the ris-.

ing of the needle. The two work-engaging surfaces of the gage havedistinct though similar functions, but they contribute toward a singleresult, to wit, holding the work so as to prevent dislocation due toretractory movement of the needle.

The delivery point of the welt guide is so close to the stitched upperthat it and the work gage tend to hold the shoe against retrogrademovement when the needle is moving axially to its initial position afterhaving fed the work.

During the feeding movement of the neodle, the work gage and the weltguide are moved backward to release it and are then moved forward so asto again engage the work, being automatically locked in the position inwhich they are stopped by reason of the thickness of the work. Thereleasing movement of the welt guide and work gage is in a curved pathwitha radius substantially the same as the radius of the arc ofmaven-rent of the needle. The creasing corner of the welt guide at itsdelivery en is such that the crease in the welt intersects the curvedpath of the needle. T find it desirable to preserve this intersectingrelationship in order that the needle may always penetrate the welt in apredetermined stitchreceiving line, regardless of the exact point atwhich the welt guide is stopped by the 152 is adjustably secured to abar 159 by means of a screw 160, and a screw 170 pasS- ing through aslot in the end of the bar. The

bar itself is pivotally supported upon ivot.

studs 171, 172 in the ends of parallel inks 1'73, 174, see Fig. 2. Thelink 17 3 at its up per end is fulcrumed upon a stud 300 projecting fromthe right side of the neck 31. The link 17 4 is fast upon the shaft 1-13hereinbefore referred to. The radial length of the links 173 and 17 4 issubstantially equal to the radius of the arc of movement of the needleso that, when the bar 159 is moved back and forth, as will be ex lained,the predetermined stitch-receiving ine of the welt continues tointersect the path of the needle without twisting the welt. The .bar isheld forward yieldingly by a spring 176, the rear end of which isattached to the stud 17 2and the forward end to a hook on the collar 91(see Figs. 1 and 5). It is adapted to be locked in this position by apawl 177 loosely mounted on the same pin 178 which supports the pawl146, previousl referred to, as shown in Fig. 12. The paw 177 is causedby a spring 17 9 to engage a ratchet segment 180, which is fast upontheshaft 143 to which the link 17 4 is secured. Although the pawl 177 isshown out of engagement with the ratchet segment, nevertheless, it'normally engages said segment so as to lock the the arm 183 ispivotally connected to one arm 185 of a two armed lever, the other arm186 of which has at its free end a roll 187 projecting into a cam grooveon the left hand face of the cam disk 43. This cam groove is so formedthat during each rota.- tion of the power shaft 39, the pawl 182 e11gages the segment 181 and rocks the shaft 14-3 so as to move the bar 159rearwardly. Both awls 177 and 14.6 must he released from t eirrespective ratchets 180 and 144 and consequently I provide the arm 183with two oppositely projecting pins 188, 189 which engage fingers onsaid pawls and rock them about their pivot 178 as shown in Fig. 11. Theforward movement of the arm 183 first causes the pawls 177 and 146 torelease their ratchets, after which the awl 182 engages the segn'ient181 to rock t e shaft 143 as described.

longer or shorter arc, as may be desired, I

65 work in its forward movement. The shank I provide means forpreventing the engage- 18b The arm{ rests upon an eccentric portion:

arm is curved so that, when it moves for-{ ward, it may drop undertension of the spring 184 into engagement with the seg-- ment 181. Thepm 118 may be rotated to:

move the eccentric portion thereof to permit the engagement of-the pawl182 during the first or the latter part of its forward movement. Thepawl 17.7 has a pin 191 similar to the pin 149 on the pawl 146 which isengaged by the finger l50 when the power shaft 39,'is rotated reverselyto operate the lever 1128. The effect of this is to move the pawl 177away from the ratchet 180 so as to unlock the work gage and welt guide.The

lever 1128 has also another finger 190 which,

when the said lever is rocked, engages a pin 192 on the segment 180 soas to rock said segment through a relatively lon are to withdraw thework gage and we t guide rearward from the work to ermit of the removalof the latter andt e insertion of another shoe to be sewed.

From this description, it will be seen that the welt guide and the workgage 'areposi- .tioned automatically by the work and that they arealways moved rearwardly the same distance each time the work is beingfed. I have found that this rearward movement need not be overone-sixteenth of an inch,

although the length of the movement may be varied by adjusting theeccentric pin 178. The operation of the machine is substantially asfollows Assuming that the needle is out of the work, that the channelguide is likewise away from the work, that the thread fin er is at itsforward extreme of movement, t at the welt guide and the work gage arepressed forward against the work an looked, and that the take-up is downor at its lower ex- 1 treme of movement, the complete rotation of thepower shaft causes the parts to be operated in the following sequence.

it should be first stated that the needle, after having fed the work andafter having drawn the loop through the work, moves forward slightly asit returns-to its initial feeding position, so as not to strain theloop, and the needle guard also begins its forward movement. The needleis caused to penetrate the work, the rearward movement of the lever 30causing the channel. guide to he moved into the channel so as to engagethe work. The needle-guard carrier and needle carrier are moved towardthe work, the needle-guard carrier moving positively and rapidly forwardas previously explained. As soon as the needle enters the work, the weltguide and work gage are unlocked and the take-up lever starts to take upthe thread so as to set the preceding stitch. The needle continues topenetrate the work and the take-up to set the stitch, and the welt guideand work gage are mored rearwardly, during which rearward movement, theneedle starts to feed the shoe, the slide, which carries the needlecarrier and the needle-guard carrier, moving to the left for thispurpose. As the needle feeds the work and approaches its final stoppingpoint, the looper cpmmencesto lay the loop-of thread abontthe needle,the thread finger moving rearwardly so as to draw off the sufficientamount of thread for the next stitch and the take-up moving upwardly soas to give up the thread. The looper, as previously stated, movesthrough an arc of substantially 450- so as to cross the bights of theloop on the needle. As soonas the needle has completed its lateralfeeding movement, the cam 43 operates the lever 186 to release thesegment 181 and permit the sprin to force the work gage and welt guideforwardly so as to engage the work, the pawl 17 7 locking them in theirengaged position. During this time, the needle is at the forward extremeof its movement, the looper has completed its arc of 450, the take-uphas completed its downward movement, and the welt guide and work gageare locked in their forward positions. The needle commences its rearwardmovement, the needle guide moving forward slightly, as the togglestraightens. As the needle draws the loop backwardly through the workand just before the hook of the needle reaches the work, the thread hookor thread finger moves forward soas to release the thread. The needlecontinues its rearward movement, and just before it reaches its limit,the looper is caused to rdtate in the opposite direction through an arcof approximately 90 to bring it to its original starting point, and justas this is occurring the needle reaches its extreme of rearward movementand the channel guide is moved forward away from the work. As thisrearward limit of movement of the needle is being reached, and after thechannel guide has been moved away from the work, the needle returns toits initial starting point or position for feeding. If the operatordesires then to remove the work from the machine, he rotates the powershaft reversely, and the cam projection i i-.1, engaging the pawl 135,rocks the lever 11% so that its linger 150 disengages the pawls from thesegments 180 and 146, and the finger 1P0 engaging the pins 191 and lit)rocks the segments or ratchets 180 and 144 so as to draw back the workgagle, the welt guide, and the work rest. T e some movement of the lever1128 rocks the arm 125- so as to release the tension sheave 118 andpermit the operator to draw 0d asmuch thread as he may desire.

iii)

lip of the welt to brace the same against he A machine embodying theinvention thus described, possesses numerous advantages which will beapparent to those skilled in the art, to which advantages it will beunnecessary to refer in detail. I may mention the fact that the positivemechanism for moving the needle-guard'carrier is greatly superior to aspring mechanism for accomplishing the movement thereof, for the reasonthat in spring-actuated needile-guard carriers, the carrier frequentlyfails to work, particularly if the needle be sprung, whereas when theguard is actuated positively, it is always moved to proper position withreference to the work and tends to straighten the needle in case itshould be sprung or twisted. I donot herein claim the looperactuatingmechanism as it is setforth and claimed in my co-pending application,Serial No. 408,034 filed December 26, 1907, 'now Patent No. 1,075,082,dated Oct. 7,1913.

Having thus explained the nature of my said invention and described away of constructing and using the same, although without attempting toset forth all of the forms in which it may be made or all of the modesof its use, I declare that what I claim is I H 1. In a welt shoesewingmachine having its needle arranged to enter the work tangentially withrelation to the bottom of the sole and from the margin toward the bodyof the sole, a welt guide shaped to impart an angle to the welt andarranged to hold the welt so that the needle will penetrate in saidangle, and a work gage having a broad welt-engaging'surface arranged tobrace the inner lip of the welt against the backward pull of the needleand its thread.

2. In a shoe-sewing machine, a welt guide, a work gage at one side ofthe welt guide, and a curved hooked needle arranged to enter the workfrom the welt side between said guide and gage, said needle beingmovable laterally from said guide toward the gage for feeding the work,said. gage having a broad surface for engaging the stitched welt abovethe line of the stitches on the side from which the needle enters toresist the backward pull of the needle.

3. In a welt shoe sewing machine having a curved oscillatory needlearranged to enter the work tangentially with relation to the bottom ofthe sole and from the margin toward the body of the sole, :1 welt guideand a work gage arranged to engage the welt at opposite sides of theneedle, said gage hav- 2 ing a surface arranged to engage the innerbackward pull of the needle and its thread,

and a surface arranged to engage the outer i lip of the welt to bracethe same against the subsequent thread.

4. In a welt shoe sewingmachine havlng inclined pull of the needle acurved oscillatory needle arranged to enter the work tangentially withrelation to the bottom of the sole and from the margin toward the bodyof the sole, and two weltengaging members arranged to brace the welt onopposite sides of the needle, each of face arranged to brace the innerlip of the welt to brace the same against the backward pull of theneedle and its thread, and each having a surface arranged to brace theouter lip of the welt against the subsequent inclined pull of the needlethread.

5. In a welt shoe sewing machine having a curved oscillatory needlearranged to enter the work tangentially with relation to the bottom ofthe sole and from the margin toward the body of the sole, a welt guideand a work gage aflixed to each' other and arranged to engage the weltat opposite sides of the needle, said guide and gage each having aweltengaging surface arranged to brace the inner portion of the welt andeach having a surface atan angle to the firstmentioned surface to bracethe outer portion of the welt.

6. In a welt shoe-sewing machine,acurved hooked needle arranged to enterthe Work from the welt side, a welt guide, a member for engaging thebetween substance on the side away from the needle to resist the inwardthrust of the needle, a work-gage for engaging the needle side of theupturned portion of the between substance above the line of stitches toresist the backward pull of the needle. said work-gage and said inwardthrust resisting member being movable from and against the worksubstantially parallel to the needle hole, and means for actuating saidwork-gage and said member.

7. In a shoe-sewing machine, a welt guide, a work gage at one side ofthe welt guide, a curved hooked needlc' arranged to enter the work fromthe welt side between said guide and gage, said needle being movablelaterally between the guide and gage for feeding the work, said gagehaving a broad surface for engaging the stitched welt between the upperedge thereof and the line of the stitches to resist the backward pull ofthe needle and thread, and a surface for engaging the welt outside theline of stitches to resist upward pull of the needle thread.

In a shoe-sewing machine, a curved hooked needle, a movable support, awelt guide and a. work gage both mounted on said supportand separated topermit the needle to reciprocate laterally between them to feed thework, means for oscillating-said needle, means for laterallyreciprocating actuating said support to move said welt l guide and workgage from and against the work.

9. In a welt shoe sewing machine, weltsaid welt-engaging members havinga sursaid needle tofeed the work, and means forguiding means having angitae welt is given a substantially L-shapeu cross section. and a workgage having angularly related surfaces arranged to engage resgectirelythe two lips of the weltto brace said lips agair" the stress/of theneedle and thread, and means for moving said gage in a direction at anangle to such surface and intermediate of the angle of said surfaces,toward and from the welt.

10. In a welt shoe sewing machine ha ing acurved oscillatory needle, awelt guide, and means arranged to move said guide bodily toward and fromthe shoe and keep a predetermined stitch-receiving line oi the Welt inthe curved path of the needle without causing angular movement of saidguide.

11. In a welt shoe sewing machine having a curved oscillatory needle, awelt guide formed to or ase the welt, and means arranged to move saidwelt guide bodily to Ward and from the shoe and keep the crease of thewelt in the curved path of the needle without causing angular movementof said guide.

12. In a Welt shoe sewing machine haying a curved oscillatory needle. awelt guide formed to crease the welt. and means arranged to more saidwelt guide bodily toward and from the shoe in an arc concentric to thatof the needle without causing angular movement of said guide.

gage, a IUGY said supper loch. compi shaft, ant to be inope tatedforwardly, and tohe operated by said ratchet on a reverse rotationthereof.

15. .ln a shoe-sewing machine, a power shaft, stitch-forming mechanism,a welt guii a movable support therefor. a tool; for said support, andmeans for releasing" said lock,comprising r :tehet on said power shaft,and a lerer ha; ig a par-H1 arranged to he inoperative when said ratchetis otated forwardl and to operated by said ratchet on a rererse rotationthereof.

In testimony whereof I have atl'ixed my signature. in gresence f twowitnesses.

' BRIE A. BALLARD.

. WAY, BROWF.

